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At our new abode there was ample space to erect the caravan’s awning to provide us with some valuable extra living space, and to make things feel a little more homely and orderly. Nonetheless 3 people and 2 dogs residing together in such a confined space could be described as an “interesting experience”, but generally we managed to rub along pretty well. Everything was something of a challenge, even the simplest of chores.
Feeling a little sorry for myself one day as I stood at the stone sink laboriously washing and rinsing out our laundry by hand, I recalled how my mother had described my Nonna’s hard life as teenage girl back in Atina. On washdays she and the other women folk would have to walk several kilometres carrying their dirty laundry down to the river bank in large baskets, which they skilfully balanced on top of their heads. Subsequently they would kneel down by the water’s edge and commence scrubbing the soiled articles with a large bar of soap, pounding and pummelling the clothes against the large flat stones to help displace the dirt. The washing then had to be rinsed by swirling it around in the icy flowing current before it could be arduously wrung out by hand, hung up to dry. Finally the women had to carry their heavy loads all the way back up the steep hill to the village. How we take so much for granted in these days of modern appliances !!!
Each morning Salvatore would arrive and immediately disappear to change into his “work clothes”. He would emerge sporting a sleeveless vest, tatty shorts and some plastic flip floppy shoes that seemed to be a few sizes too small for his bare feet. In addition he would don an old canvas hat, pulling it down tightly over his balding pate to protect it from the burning sun. From under the brim his kind eyes twinkled. The compassionate Salvatore seemed truly concerned for us, being “all alone in this strange new country” and was eager to take us under his wing. We were soon to become firm friends.
He was keen to share with us some of his valuable pearls of knowledge, offering his personal tips on gardening, cooking and keeping chickens and life in general. It was obvious, that over the years he had learned to be thrifty and was very reluctant to throw anything away, in case it might turn out to prove useful some day. He busied himself preparing for the arrival of the demanding summer visitors, as were many similar establishments right along the coast. We were informed that the Italian summer season started off gently in June, and accelerated into July, reaching a dramatic peak in August, when virtually all Italians habitually take their annual holiday.
We tried to help him out here and there by doing some odd jobs around the site: tidying up the grounds, whitewashing walls with lime, splashing a lick of paint here and there, putting up shading and numerous international flags, erecting tables and benches, airing the little chalets and taking the parasols and deckchairs out of mothballs. “Lavoro, sempre lavoro, ma……. piano, piano” he used to say.
* photo by gaetan lee
At the weekend a couple of families turned up at the campsite, to prepare their plots for the summer season. A family from Rome were very sociable and sometimes, occasionally of an evening, invited us to eat with them. We soon learned that Vittore, a gentle, bronzed giant of man, was a muratore, a builder who had done some work for Salvatore over the years. His wife Maria Angela gave us more tips on Italian cooking, especially on how to prepare artichokes, aubergines, and peppers and an array of other vegetables that we are not so familiar with back home.
They took us to a local small holding or orto where they often purchased their fruit and vegetables. Here nothing was weighed out, there was nothing precise about it, quantity was just roughly gauged by the handful. For just a few euros we would leave the market garden with bulging bags of fresh produce. Somehow in Italy everything seemed to taste so much more flavoursome, we were sure this was because everything is grown or produced locally and is still very fresh when it comes to the table.
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For years, we had been avid viewers of those programmes about relocating abroad and starting a new life, and we had told ourselves that perhaps, one day, we would up sticks from our home in the UK, and move to a more temperate climate.
We had holidayed several times in Italy, however our initial trip was to visit and meet, for the very first time, some of my mother’s family who lived in the small mountain town of Atina, in Frosinone. A century had passed since my Nonno and Nonna had left behind their beloved homeland in search of a new life in London.
During our wonderful sojourn there, cousin Mario kindly volunteered to escort us on several enjoyable outings, a day trip to Rome, a visit to Pompeii and the Amalfi Coast.
Gaeta Old Town
Another day he drove us westwards to a stretch of coast which is known as the “Riviera di Ulisse”. Here Mario treated us to a tour of the resorts of Gaeta and Sperlonga and we soon found ourselves being charmed by the atmosphere of the ancient medieval quarters, the colourful ports and numerous sandy beaches. We took a gentle stroll along a stretch of Sperlonga’s golden shore which was gently lapped by the crystal clear waters. It seemed that this beautiful area had not yet been discovered by many foreign holiday makers. So enchanted we were with this beautiful stretch of coast, that we vowed to return again to explore this area in greater detail.
That Autumn we decided to sign up for evening classes in Italian in an effort to improve our language skills. A year or so later we set about planning a cheap break to further investigate this area. I scoured the internet for a small villa or apartment to rent during our stay. We ticked off a few advertisements and sent off emails, in pigeon Italian, requesting more details. One fine chap, by the name of Guido, replied saying that he had a small apartment to rent in Gaeta, near to Serapo beach. Thus we began to correspond via email and he was intrigued that we had previously visited Gaeta, and that I had family still living in Atina. He wrote, saying that he and his family had always hoped to visit the UK, and they were very interested in meeting up with a British family. Then out of the blue, he came up with a proposition – “What if we were to invite them to come and stay with us in Wales for a week over the Easter holiday, and in return he would invite us to stay with them in Gaeta?”
After some initial hesitation we threw caution to the wind and decided to go along with this mad cap idea.
Thus this Italian family, namely Guido, his wife Giovanna and their two teenage sons planned their Easter trip. We had rather assumed that they would be flying to the UK, however they had their own ideas – to drive all the way from their hometown of Gaeta, situated two hours south of Rome, to South Wales. When they arrived late in the evening, as you can imagine, they were utterly exhausted. We were astonished to discover that somehow they had successfully achieved the 2135 km journey in a mere 24 hours, only stopping very briefly for petrol and the odd comfort stop! With them they had brought copious gifts of olive oil, wine, buffala mozzarella, other local cheeses and delicious Gaeta olives.
Over that week we took them out and about to visit local places of interest and gave them the opportunity to experience a little slice of the British lifestyle. Over the week our two families had really forged a special bond, and by the time their holiday was drawing to a successful conclusion, we had come to regard each other almost as family.
In the Autumn our hospitality was generously reciprocated when they invited us to stay with them. We flew to Rome where we hired a car and drove south towards Gaeta. Guido and Giovanna were remarkably generous hosts, who wined and dined us, and showed us many of the fascinating local sites and attractions. Once again we were completely mesmerised by the sheer beauty and enchanting atmosphere of this region of South Lazio which seemed to have so much in its favour. Even in September / October the weather was so gloriously warm yet we were astounded to find that the numerous sandy beaches were virtually deserted, as by early September the Italian summer season was already over.
Itri
Paul and I decided to take an exploratory drive and we intrepidly ventured inland, winding our way along a particularly tortuous road that rose steadily from the coast into some magnificent mountainous countryside. We finally pulled into the historic town of Itri, sited on the ancient Roman Appian Way. Whilst relaxing outside a jolly little bar, sipping our ice cold beers, I declared that if ever we are able to realise our dream of living in Italy, Itri would be the place to make our home.
Yet, far too soon, our holiday was over and depression began to set in as it was time to return to our humdrum life with its all too familiar routine. We just had to face the stark reality – we would have to wait, until some time in the distant future before we could consider moving abroad. Otherwise all we could hope for was that our £1 stake in the weekly national lottery would one day come up trumps.
However nothing could prevent me from dreaming !!!
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(This is our tale based on our adventures whilst striving to create a new life for ourselves in Bella Italia, however to protect individuals’ privacy a number of names and places and certain details have been altered.)
I have always felt that Bella Italia was in my blood.
My maternal grandparents originated from the beautiful mountain community of Atina, overlooking the River Melfa and the Meta and Mainarde mountains, and the Abruzzi. In Italy, at the beginning of the 1900’s, times were very hard, people toiled in miserable conditions and experienced severe hardship and poverty due to poor wages and food shortages. Thus my grandfather Benedetto felt restless, as many Italian families departed for distant lands: the America, France, Belgium, Scotland, and England. His elder brother and sister had already moved to live in London, and Benedetto, longing for adventure was also enticed by the prospect of emigration to a new land of opportunity.
I too was born nearby, in the heart of London – “within the sound of Bow Bells“, so I suppose I could be considered to be an “Italian Cockney“. I developed a true passion for Italy and all things Italian, and felt a real need to see for myself the land of my forefathers, to visit Atina and walk in the footsteps of my grandparents.
15 years ago my husband Paul and I spent a memorable fortnight staying with some of my Italian cousins, in Atina. It was our first meeting but we were so warmly welcomed and received into the family fold and Atina transpired to be even more charming than I could ever have imagined.
Atina in Frosinone
Thus began our irresistible love affair with “La Bella Italia”
which finally inspired us to risk everything, sell up lock, stock and barrel
and entirely transform our lifestyle.
Courageous? Daring? Reckless? Foolhardy? Naïve? All of these ???
This is the tale of our diverse adventures,
exploits and escapades along the way.
I hope you will enjoy following our progress ………………….
AVANTI SEMPRE AVANTI !!!
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My Grandparents with some of their children
In the Summer of 1911 my Italian grandparents first set foot on English soil, and made their way to the city of London, to the district of Clerkenwell, the Italian quarter know as “Little Italy” or “The Hill”. They rented a dilapidated Victorian house at the end of Little Saffron Hill, close to St Peter’s Italian Church, which was to be their home for many years to come. Here my mother was born and she was brought up in the thriving Italian community.
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